Indonesia Travel Guide

Arrive at Pangkalanbun in Central Kalimantan airport and then to Kumai, a thriving harbor town at the edge of the vast Borneo interior. Cruise by local boat, the klotok, up the Kumai River to arrive at the camp. Watch for native birds, including the spectacular rhinoceros hornbill. You'll likely see wild orangutans and the rare proboscis monkey on the way.

Hand selected by Louis Leakey along with Jane Goodall and Dian Fossey to study the relationship between great apes and humans, Birute Galdikas established Camp Leakey, in the Tanjung Puting National Park, as her base for orangutan research over 25 years ago. This facility does important work in the training and reintroduction of formerly captive orangutans to the wild. The program provides a rare opportunity to closely observe orangutans in their natural habitat.

DAYAK VILLAGES

Unlike most of Kalimantan's tribes, who live near coastal areas, the Dayaks still favor areas deep inland along the banks of myriad waterways. Known for their intricate tattooing, blowguns, elongated earlobes with heavy metal earrings, and mastery of basket weaving and woodcarving, the Dayaks are facing-as are the rest of Indonesia's peoples-modernization. Even though the younger generation often sport shorts and T-shirts, watch for village elders in traditional garb, and travel into "Heart of Darkness" jungles on Kalimantan's most-often used highways-its rivers.

Noted for their music, the robust and straightforward nature of the Bataks is in stark contrast to the more subtle, refined Javanese. The shores of Lake Toba offer some of Indonesia's most inviting scenery. Pine forests stretch down to white sandy beaches, and calm waters invite you to swim, canoe or sail. Cruise to spectacular Samosir Island, rising in vertical cliffs from the center of the lake, where you'll see traditional villages. Upon returning to Medan, explore silver waterfalls and groves of cocoa and rubber trees.

You'll discover spectacular natural features, including eerie limestone karst mountains, large caves, hot springs, thundering waterfalls and huge lakes; distinctive flora and fauna; and diverse and exotic cultures including the Bugis (renowned as pirates in the not-too-distant past), the Makassar (builders of the fabulous Makassar schooners) and the Torajan (known for their incredible funeral ceremonies and cliff burials).

TANA TORAJA (TORAJALAND)

The perfect place for trekking in Indonesia's dense rainforests. Experience tribal cultures, witness elaborate rituals and enjoy birding as you explore Tana Toraja by foot.

NORTH SULAWESI

Its waters host some of the world's best snorkeling. Explore national parks with distinctive indigenous wildlife and dense tropical forest.

The people are progressively more traditional as one travels east: discover their villages, animistic religious practices and extraordinary ikat weavings. These are truly adventurous destinations, best accessed by boat.

Both the valley and the surrounding mountains are inhabited by the Dani tribe. These "Gentle Warriors of the Highlands" with their penis gourds and feathered headdresses are, to the visitor, among the most gentle and soft-spoken people you will ever encounter, yet reports of tribal wars endure, conducted to settle a blood feud or a marriage gone bad. Mummifying and smoking the remains is the Dani's traditional way of showing respect to their powerful ancestors. It may be possible to join in the festivities of a traditional Dani pig feast, an incredible experience, unchanged over the millennia.

Explore traditional salt mines at Jiwika, where tribal women soak trunks from banana plants in a brine pool to collect the precious salt.

This is a destination for the flexible adventurer, willing to sacrifice creature comforts and predictability for a glimpse into the lives of some of Earth's most primitive people. While in villages, lodging and food will be simple. Portions of some walks may be strenuous even for strong walkers.